(Unsurprisingly given his love of the macabre, McQueen was a fan of the director, and gorged on his films as a child.) The models wore dresses printed with sinister bird outlines and tire-track marks - the latter designed by his Saint Martins classmate Simon Ungless. Tippi Hedren, Hitchcock’s iconic blonde heroine, inspired this collection. (She was Isabella Blow’s assistant at the time.) And yes, before you ask, that is a baby Plum Sykes modeling in the show. His love of shock value is already evident in the slashed garment he called the “Get Your Tits Out” sweater. Already, the designer’s penchant for molding the body comes across in a plaster breastplate, and his beloved Victorian references are everywhere as well. When a pregnant model with a shaved head marked with McQueen tattoos walks down the runway, the audience responds with stunned applause. Watching this, it’s hard to believe there are empty seats in the front row - the whole show is a revelation. To me, that part of the body - not so much the buttocks, but the bottom of the spine - that’s the most erotic part of anyone’s body, man or woman,” he told The Guardian in 1996. “I wanted to elongate the body, not just show the bum. This was also the show where he introduced one of his signature silhouettes, the bumster pant. The designer’s dark, provocative point of view was already in evidence early on, with faux-blood-spattered dresses and sheer pieces revealing the models’ pubic hair. And look out for cameos from the decade’s greatest models: Gisele, Kate Moss, Shalom Harlow, James King, Erin O’Connor, and Alek Wek. Luckily, the designer’s shows are very accessible on YouTube - listen for the shouts of joy and encouragement from the rapt audience. He established that precedent early on with provocative, challenging shows that were as much dares to the viewer as fashion collections. Read more articles on today’s topic: McQueen’s Early Collections.Ī typical fashion show, with deferent models, a shiny, modern setting, and pretty clothes - none of this was Alexander McQueen’s style. There’s a new theme every day on It’s Vintage. Shalom Harlow in McQueen’s spring 1999 show.
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